Thursday, February 9, 2012

Little Gauchos




A natural on horseback
The infinite spaces and long, long days at these latitudes have warped our sense of time. Our fellow travellers are unamused when we arrive 15m late for the horseback riding. 

It's a hustle to depart, and of course we find ourselves missing parkas and ill-equipped for the piercing winds around Lago Sarmiento. Thanks Matteo, Matt to his friends back home in Little Rock Arkansas, for lending us sunglasses and an extra jacket or two. He's here to learn Spanish and to ride from the gaouchos. For the three months he's been here, he handles the horses like a pro. Like many of the guides we meet along the way, Matt's here in this wild land to pick up skills and eventually move on. Or perhaps stay. For me, the draw to stay is strong, but the intention is still to return to London... 


We set off over difficult and varied terrain - the Girls are naturals. The impatience of our travelling companions dissipates in the wind as Famiglia Viesulas takes to the front of the pack. We all marvel at the Girls' poise in the furious wind on these steep slopes. But then the bedtime stories the night before revolved around what our horses would look like and what their names would be. called. Pil Dorita, Munija, Banana and Melchior are beautiful. Pil Dorita's too pregnant to be ridden by her gaucho, but Iris is thrilled to give her some exercise. Rather ominously, I'm warned that Melchior will bolt into a gallop given half a chance, and that if he does the rest of the troop will do likewise - not what our retirement companions had bargained for. And indeed he tries... Meanwhile, Jasmine's Munija is ever stopping to munch on grasses, but JJ shows him who's boss. Banana is well behaved, and Flo has a civilized saunter. 

We're left marvelling at these strong and beautiful beasts that man has managed to forge such a bond with over centuries and civilizations, and resolve to learn more about the history of the horse. 

Less reliable than a horse

The dust leaves us looking like chimney sweeps, and the entire outing has given all of us a taste for more travel on horseback. Once upon a time, every gentleman needed to know how to ride. Part of school, possibly more aristocratic than knowing how to ride a surfboard. I expect we'll be back in the saddle again well before this trip is through.



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