909km in Uruguay: Colonia

I can relate to the trajectory of Uruguay's past. Historically, like Lithuania and the Baltic States, Uruguay has been contested terrain. Between the Portuguese - who founded Colonia, following in the intrepid footsteps of Jesuit missionaries - and the Spanish - who set themselves up as interceptors of "contraband" trade in Montevideo. And naturally their protectorates and colonies and independent states that evolved from them, the South American giants Brazil and Argentina. Naturally, the British as well got involved in the sabre-rattling.

Swept up in the nineteenth century's wave of nationalist self-determination, they managed to wrest independence from competing powers. Like its neighbours, however, Uruguay also succumbed to military repression in the 70's, and got swept up in the Argentine crisis in the early 2000's. 

For all that, in our quick traverse of the coastal areas of Uruguay, what we registered was a lot less melancholic than the pensiero Argentino across the water - mostly a laid-back, easy vibe, an appreciation of the arts, a pronounced Italian influence and of course gaucho heritage. Uruguay, it seems, means "River of Birds". 

Our journey in Uruguay started and ended in Colonia, Unesco heritage sight and gemstone on the Rio de la Plata. It has changed hands an extraordinary number of times since being founded in 1680. That the old town seems to have survived intact I suspect is due to its one-time commercial importance. It was charming to meander its irregular streets on our return journey, stopping at La Bodeguita for a fine pizza on the waterfront.  

The ferry terminals to-and-fro might have been Eurostar for all their efficiency. I found it almost quaint that the "in-flight" entertainment on the Buquebus ferry was advertising travel to Spain and France - a case of trading places. The Old World is the New World all over again. 

We clocked a lot of kilometers in Uruguay. And we departed for our base in Buenos Aires thoroughly charmed by this well tended, friendly, delightful country and its people. 

Thanks to Francophone Frank for the delightful apartment in Colonia, just shy of the cobblestone heart of the Barrio Historico. And thank you Flo for taking the wheel, I'm inadvertently a massive beneficiary of your "mal de voyage" (but dibs on any 4x4 driving that awaits in Patagonia...).